In the Wilds of South America — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
In the Wilds of South America
John Stuart Mill · en
For two days there was no perceptible change in the country; but on
the morning of the third day, shortly after leaving the settlement of
Monos, we entered virgin forest at an altitude of seven thousand five
hundred feet. A shelter-house, known as San José, is just a thousand
feet higher up, and at ten o’clock we were up ten thousand one hundred
and forty feet. From here one has an unrivalled view of thousands of
square miles of country. The magnificent valley, appearing greener and
more level from our height than was really the case, lay below, and
stretched far to the north. The paramos and volcanoes flanking the
far side were abreast of our station. Frequently, while in similar
positions, there recurred to me the sentiment so aptly expressed by
Hudson: “Viewed from the top of a lofty mountain, the world assumes a
vastness and varied beauty that revive the flagging spirit and refresh
the soul.” And quite as certainly there is forced upon our recognition
the infinitesimal smallness of man when compared to the immensity of
nature--a mere atom existing by virtue of a benevolent force that has
so ordained, but that reserves the power to crush the whole fabric of
life at a breath.
The top of the ridge is ten thousand three hundred and forty feet
high, and the vegetation is typical of the temperate zone; low, dense
bushes, mingled with the gnarled branches of stunted evergreen trees
and shrubs, burdened with clumps of red and lavender flowers. Numbers
of low grass shacks had been built along the trail; some of them
were very long and housed the peons working on the road to Micai.
Although these structures were of comparatively recent origin, many
small rodents had been attracted to them by the corn that formed the
principal article of food of the _peons_. A large brown rat (_Oryzomys
pectoralis_) was very abundant; apparently this rodent had formerly
existed in small numbers only, for it was rare out in the open; but
the artificial conditions created by the settlement of the region had
proved so congenial that it increased rapidly. The same is true of
several other species of rats that almost overran the houses.
In riding or walking along the trail, I frequently encountered a
species of snake resembling in coloration a coral snake; however, it
was not unusual to find an individual five feet or even more in length,
and two or three inches through in the thickest part. They appeared
exceeding sluggish and even refused to move although almost trodden
upon. We never molested them, as they appeared to be harmless, and were
really of striking beauty. Unfortunately, we had no way of preserving
any. A species recently discovered in Nicaragua by Mr. Clarence R.
Halter, which is similar to the one we saw almost daily, belongs to the
genus _Coronella_.