In the Wilds of South America — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
In the Wilds of South America
John Stuart Mill · en
We left Cartago as soon as possible and after a half-day’s ride
over gently rolling, brush-covered country reached the Rio Viejo. A
good-sized dwelling known as Piedra Moller stands near the river; there
one may obtain men and dugout canoes with which to cross the stream.
Beyond the river the trail passes through a little valley or depression
about four leagues across. Tall brush, some first-growth forest, and
extensive jungles of bamboo flank the narrow passageway. I counted
no less than forty species of birds during the afternoon and heard
the notes of several others that I did not recognize. Small green
parrakeets (_Psittacula conspicillata_) were exceedingly plentiful.
They always reminded me of English sparrows--not in appearance but by
their actions. Flocks of them sat on telegraph wires or house-tops,
chirping and chattering incessantly, or fed on fruits or seeds in the
bushes. They are also abundant in towns and villages and nest under
tile roofs, in hollow posts, and in holes in walls. The people are very
fond of the little “love-birds” as they are called and keep them in
their patios as pets.
At Balsas, which served as the first night’s stopping-place, we
discovered a whippoorwill’s (_Stenopsis ruficervix_) nest in a clump of
bamboo. The single egg had been deposited on the leaves near a bamboo
sprout that was rapidly pushing its way upward like a huge stalk of
asparagus. The incubating bird fluttered away as we approached, but we
returned the next morning and Allen secured a photograph of her on the
nest.
Noon of the next day found us at Finlandia, an inviting village with a
population of about four hundred, and situated at an elevation of six
thousand four hundred feet. All this country is the foot-hills of the
Central Andean Range. Rounded hills follow one another in a succession
of gentle billows, the sides of which are so gradual that one hardly
realizes there is a steady ascent. The forest that covers the ridge on
the other side of Finlandia is of a heavy, subtropical character--the
first of its kind we had encountered on this trip. Red howling monkeys
were roaring in the ravine below, but the birds of the forest belonged
to a fauna different from the one we had just left.
The palm-filled valley of the Boquilla had been reached by night.
Salento, with its low, whitewashed houses, was clearly visible on top
of the next ridge. It required just thirty minutes next morning to
reach the town after a climb of nine hundred feet. We did not stop at
the settlement, but continued up the time-honored trail leading to
Quindio Pass; within a short time forest of the most promising kind had
been reached and camp was being made in a sheltered spot about half a
mile above a lone house called Laguneta. The pack-animals were sent
back to Salento, where there was an abundance of pasturage, until they
should be required again.