In the Wilds of South America — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
In the Wilds of South America
John Stuart Mill · en
The woods at Laguneta were rather open and there was little underbrush.
The trees, however, were burdened with moss, bromelias, orchids, and
other epiphytes. Climbing bamboo and creepers filled the few clearings
with impenetrable thickets. Most of the vegetation had small, harsh
leaves, and the stems were gnarled and stunted. Clusters of fruit
resembling pokeberries, on which numerous species of birds fed, grew on
tall bushes near the forest’s edge. Begonias covered with red and white
flowers filled the hollows.
The Laguneta region was remarkable for the number of ant-birds found
there (_Grallaria_, _Chamœza_, etc.) that are rare in collections
on account of the difficulty of collecting them. We secured fifteen
different species in the neighborhood. As they live in thickets and
on the ground, the only knowledge one has of their presence is their
strange whistling notes, distinct in each species, that come from some
gloomy spot deep in the tangled vegetation. _Grallaria squamigera_ was
to me the most interesting species. It is a huge, heavy-bodied bird,
olive above and tawny barred with black below. From a distance the
coloration reminds one of a large immature robin, but the tail is very
short and protrudes only about half an inch beyond the lower coverts,
and the long legs measure fully five inches. The plumage is long and
full. Occasionally we saw the shy creatures as we worked in front of
our tent in the afternoons; we always made it a point to be very quiet
and the reward came in the way of shadowy forms that unconcernedly
pursued their lives among the logs and brush without suspecting our
presence. This shows the advantage of camping in the midst of the
wilderness, where one is sure to see and hear wild things at the most
unexpected times--experiences that are lost if one does not spend his
entire time in the very heart of their environs.
[Illustration: The town of Salento.]
Squirrel Woods is the name we applied to a spot below Laguneta and
several miles nearer to Salento. On the upward journey the place
had been singled out as being unusually attractive for a week’s
collecting, owing to the number of birds and particularly of squirrels
seen from the trail. This, however, proved to be the one place in all
Colombia where we were not welcome, and in this regard it is unique in
my two years’ experience in that country.