Oberland : $b Pilgrimage, Volume 9 — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Oberland : $b Pilgrimage, Volume 9
John Stuart Mill · en
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The leap of recognition, unknowing between the mountains and herself
which was which, made the first sight of them—smoothed snow and crinkled
rock in unheard-of unimagined tawny light—seem, even at the moment of
seeing, already long ago.
They knew, they smiled joyfully at the glad shock they were, sideways
gigantically advancing while she passed as over a bridge across which
presently there would be no return, seeing and unseeing, seeing again
with the first keen vision.
They closed in upon the train, summitless, their bases gliding by, a
ceaseless tawny cliff throwing its light into the carriage, almost
within touch; receding, making space at its side for sudden blue water,
a river accompanying, giving them gentleness who were its mighty edge;
broadening, broadening, becoming a wide lake, a stretch of smooth
peerless blue with mountains reduced and distant upon its hither side.
With the sideways climbing of the train the lake dropped away, down and
down until presently she stood up to see it below in the distance, a
blue pool amidst its encirclement of mountain and of sky: a picture
sliding away, soundlessly, hopelessly demanding its perfect word.
* * * * *
“_Je suis anglaise_,” she murmured as the window came down into place.
“_Je le crois, madame. Mais
comment-voulez-vous-mon-dieu-vous-autres-anglais-qu’on-chauffe-les-coupés?_”
She was left to pictures framed and glazed.
* * * * *
Berne was a snowstorm blotting out everything but small white
green-shuttered houses standing at angles about the open space between
the station and the little restaurant across the way, their strangeness
veiled by falling flakes, flakes falling fast on freshly fallen snow
that was pitted with large deep-sunken foot-prints. The electric air of
dawn had softened, and as she plunged, following the strides of a row of
foot-prints, across to her refuge, it wrapped her about, a pleasant
enlivening density, warmed by the snow. Monstrous snowstorm, adventure,
and an excuse for shirking the walk to the Bridge and its view of the
Bernese heights. She was not ready for heights. This little secret tour,
restricted to getting from train to breakfast and back again to the
train, gave her, with its charm of familiar activity in a strange place,
a sharp first sense of Switzerland that in obediently following the
dictated programme she would have missed. But coming forth,
strengthened, once more into the snow she regretted the low
walking-shoes that prevented the following up of her glad meeting with
the forgotten details of the continental breakfast, its tender-crusted
rolls, the small oblongs of unglistening sugar that sweetened the
life-giving coffee, by an exploration of the nearer streets.
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