Peru: a land of contrast — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Peru: a land of contrast
John Stuart Mill · en
The aura of the Unknown God invested the fish-idol, and the temple was
held in such awe that it was not only spared by the Incas, but they
even made pilgrimages to the shrine. Shy in the thought of offending
the Maker of the World, Inca Yupanqui allowed his golden seaside temple
to remain, but erected a temple to the Sun a little above its level.
To honor the conqueror, the priests of Pachacamac “appointed a solemn
fishing of many thousand Indians, who went to sea in their vessels of
reeds.”
Though the fish-idols were ejected, and a convent for the Virgins of
the Sun was founded, worship of Pachacamac went on as before. The Incas
joined in it, identifying him with Uiracocha of the mountains, but they
extorted Sun adoration as well, a fair barter of faith.
Then the priests of the Sun made an idol of Pachacamac, and so it
presided until, drenched with sacrificial blood, it was chopped to
pieces by Hernando Pizarro and twenty soldiers in January, 1533. A
terrible earthquake followed, which Pizarro called the devil’s rage,
and triumphant he planted a cross above the looted temple. Pizarro gave
the golden nails to his pilot, as a reward for his entire venture.
But much of the temple’s treasure is said to be concealed underground,
undiscovered to this day.
* * * * *
The temple pile glows against the blue sea in the midst of shimmering
sand. Pachacamac lies in its magnificent ruin surrounded by acres of
skeletons. For more than two thousand years it was the most famous
burial place of the coast. Even mummies were brought from great
distances to lie in the sacred ground.
Layers upon layers of succeeding generations have all yielded
their excavated secrets, each throwing light on others. Time and
treasure-seekers have laid bare the most recent. Histories of great
peoples told by their graves!
I stood upon the summit of the broad mound, the temple to Inti, the
Sun, built by the Incas above that of Pachacamac, the fish-god. Its
crumbling walls, with traces of their brilliant coloring, ended
abruptly in mid-air. The headless skeletons of forty-six young girls
had recently been found upon the terrace where I stood, the braided
cords hanging loosely about their skeleton necks.
[Illustration: PAMPA DE LOS HUESOS--THE FIELD OF BONES.]
Far below stretched the vast field of the dead. I looked out over
a desert of round white skulls, with eye-cavities staring at the
sun--Sun-worship continued in death. Little flurries of dust rose
here and there, as men with shovels turned over the sand, hoping for
treasure. _Gallinazos_, hideous vultures of the desert, paced up and
down. Below the convent of the Virgins of the Sun, whose niches only
remain, was a small blue lagoon under palm trees. On its reed-edges
a white heron tilted about--a curious, gnarled creature, giving an
impression of majestic grace.