Peru: a land of contrast — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Peru: a land of contrast
John Stuart Mill · en
A large butterfly poised gently on the water’s surface. It was sunset
time, the butterflies’ drinking hour. A copper bell tolled slowly.
The reverberation pierced far into the silence and was “prolonged by
the whole surrounding desert.” A boy perched on an overhanging rock
was playing a flute. The frail sounds echoed through the quiet air,
“hesitating within a silence almost too large.” What can give such
an impression of space as a flute? Or, in ceasing, leave such utter
stillness? A gorgeous peacock preened itself against the crimson
bougainvillea in the sunset, then folded its fan for the night.
It is curious how the atmosphere of a dream cannot be conveyed in words.
Sitting beneath the mango tree by a lily-edged brook, I watched the
low bonfire roasting desert quail and smelled the scent of heliotrope
hedges, while I listened to an old man’s plaintive song, mingling with
a quiet desert waterfall. A wild youth with a bullet gash across one
cheek told me of reckless escapades in the valleys above. He twisted
off oranges with a stick of bamboo and dropped them into my lap, as
the moon, poised on the crest of the mauve-colored Andes like a discus
thrown by a mighty arm from beyond, disengaged herself and traveled
upward. Moonlight, he said, is brighter in the mountain defiles. The
moon sometimes drops a rainbow up there, a faint, round, dream rainbow,
made of thin far-diluted sunlight. Pushed by a little breeze, it
divides the cloud and disappears.
He pointed out the false Cross preceding the true Cross, preparing its
way into the sky.
“Some violets have got in here,” he said suddenly, tweaking one out by
the roots. Intrusive violets!
A man with spurs passed _picante_ and young kid and trays of fruit,
their crevices filled with flowers.
Was not Amiel right when he said that “_Un paysage est un état d’âme_?”
It was an “ambrosial night,” in a place to attach affection, except
that affection is not for places, either actually or in retrospect. One
heart-beat faster, and the nitrate desert has fairy illusions. Why is
it that merely seeing foreign sights leaves only craving, while a whiff
of feeling in a distant, lonely spot fills one with the meaning and
the mystery of everything and brings tears to the eyes of memory? The
purple of the bare mountains is significant in the afterglow. Dripping
water is significant. The moon sheds a different light. The heat of
the desert sand just below the surface becomes suggestive. The air is
filled with indefinable odors never perceived elsewhere, and the sight
of a sand-colored bird explains all the secrets of the universe.