Peru: a land of contrast — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Peru: a land of contrast
John Stuart Mill · en
The beauty which alone would have woven a spell about the place merely
lapsed into a background. In itself the voice was not faultless, nor
the moon different from other windless, immaculate nights; but the air
was sweeter, and the guavas were at the season’s climax, their one day
of perfection. They tell you that if you eat guavas in Pica, you become
either ill or enchanted; in either case you cannot leave.
He must have been talking for a long time. It was as if his voice
had been beneath my range of sound, or too soft--though I heard well
enough. All at once I began to understand.
“Perhaps you have heard of the bush which grows in Patagonia. It is
covered with pale yellow flowers. When a match is placed beneath
it, the bush blazes forth and is reduced to immediate ashes, all
its strength exhausted in a single dazzling effort. It is called
_escandalosa_.
“Had you let me know two weeks ago that you would come, I would have
put a bit of nitrate on the roots of my rose-tree, and it would have
blossomed viciously for you!”
“Yes,” I said, “but afterwards?”
“Oh, to be sure. Then it would have died.”
An owl screamed from the top of a _ciruela_ tree, a little
owl-of-the-desert, just a few inches high.
Pica, the Flower of the Sand! With what golden words borrowed from
Hindoo poets might not its charm be told? By what enchantment its suave
breezes be recalled? Everybody knows it is a magic spot. Its quiet
existence is a sort of self-expression of inmost thoughts without
technique.
Doctor Stübel, the earthquake specialist, says Pica is an eruption
center.
CHAPTER V
A CLASH OF CONTRASTS
I
While the mysticism of the Middle Ages was expanding in delicate spires
of Gothic architecture, the Inca’s empire was exposing its heart of
gold to the blaze of a tropical sun. Their only similarity is that a
shadowy veil, half history, half legend, floats between us and them
both. But the gold shines through, and the veil cannot conceal its
brilliancy.