Some Artists at the Fair — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Some Artists at the Fair
John Stuart Mill · en
They allow no difference in their surroundings or atmosphere; there is
no hurry nor rush nor noise; only the indolent, lazy life of the East.
Had the genie of the lamp been summoned from space to work these
marvellous effects it could not have been better done.
But the picturesque does not end with the Turkish village, its mosques,
bazaars, café, theatre, and attendants. Enter the gates leading to the
little toy houses of the Javanese, and stop for a moment at one of the
doors. Half a dozen of the dancing-girls are cuddled together in the
middle of the floor. There is no light except through the open door.
Some are smoking cigarettes. One is painting the eyebrows of a comrade,
who in turn is combing the other’s hair. Two are stretched out on either
side of the entrance lolling lazily. They smile courteously, and when
one rises and trips away to the next miniature house, she drops you a
slight deferential courtesy as she passes--not to attract your
attention, but as challenging permission--to cross in front of you.
If you, an admirer of Western civilization, offer some one of its
subjects a piece of silver, you receive either the customary gruff
thanks or the incredulous stare. If you have doubts about the courtesy,
the refinement, and the charm of the semi-barbarous East, try the same
experiment on one of these little Javanese maidens, fully of age and yet
hardly as tall as the curly haired daughter that you hold in your arms.
When you tender her the coin she walks to where you stand without the
slightest trace of either forwardness or timidity, drops on one
knee--clasping the money in her right hand--crosses both arms over her
bosom, places the piece on her head, and then bowing low, her face
toward you, retraces her steps into the bungalow. With each gesture she
intends some graceful service--she is your slave--her heart is always
true, her head in subjection. It is only her way of saying thank
you--this poor little half-clad, half-civilized, Javanese maid; but it
is so gracefully, so charmingly done, it is so naïve and sincere, that
if you leave the door of her hut with a cent in your pocket you should
be sentenced to spend a month in her village to learn better manners.
As you are still in search of the picturesque, follow that barefooted
Arab with fez and long yellow gown, who has just saluted with such
respect and humility Roberto Levy (chief commissioner of all these
Muhammedan people), touching his heart and lips and forehead after the
manner of his race. He has some complaint to make or grievance to right.
You note that the man enters a gate farther down
[Illustration: IN CAIRO STREET.]
on the Plaisance, above which you catch the minaret of another mosque,
overlooking “A Street in Cairo.” Later on you discover that this
barefooted Arab drives a camel along this tortuous thoroughfare.