Dürrenstein, the Dungeon of Richard Cœur de Lion--Ruins and Sentiment--A Gem of River Scenery--Canalization of the River--The only “Blue Danube”--Tulln and its Antiquities--Active River Commerce--Our Raftsmen Friends 88 CHAPTER VIII Vienna; Its History and Characteristics--The Lia Rowing Club--Our Stay at Hainburg and Excursions in the Neighborhood--Theben, the Frontier Town of Hungary--A Model Postmaster 102 CHAPTER IX Pressburg and the River below--Monotony of Landscape and our Introduction to Dust and Mud--Gran; Its Situation and Attractions--Visegrád--Our Hospitable Reception--General Görgei--Our Reluctant Parting--Approach to Budapest--The First Accident to the Fleet--The Neptune Club--Gypsy Music 119 CHAPTER X Budapest almost our Capua--The Bridges and Baths--The Great Hungarian Plain--Cheery River Folk--Duna Földvár--A Surprise Picnic and a Severe Storm--In the Heart of Hungary--Mohács and a Veteran of Two Wars--Tokay and Patriotic Sentiments 133 CHAPTER XI The Franzens Canal between the Danube and the Theiss--A Heterogeneous Population--Monostorszég and a Peasants’ Dance--Curious Types and Costumes--A Spectacular Sunday--First Signs of Oriental Life 151 CHAPTER XII A Watermelon Metropolis--Our Fleet taken for Torpedo-boats--A Gypsy Queen--Peterwardein and Carlowitz--Busy Life on the Banks--In Sight of Belgrade--Evening in Camp--The Servian Frontier--Semlin and Belgrade--Oriental Characteristics and Modern Improvements--A Sculptor’s Paradise--An Unexpected Encounter 164 CHAPTER XIII Semendria and its Great Castle--Our Passports are Useless--Bazias and the Entrance to the Carpathians--The Emperor’s Birthday on a Gunboat--Castle of Golubáç--Drenkova and the First Rapids--Escape from a Whirlpool and a Dash through the Cataracts 184 CHAPTER XIV Improvements to Navigation--Rapids of the Jur--The Kasan Defile--Remarkable River Scenery--Trajan’s Tablet and Old Roman Roadway--Orsova and the Herkulesbad--Ada Kaleh, the Turkish Settlement--The Iron Gates--The Danube and the Ister--Origin of the Name of the Danube--We Lose our Admiral--The Iron Gates--Captured by Roumanian Soldiers--Under Military Supervision 197 CHAPTER XV We are Arrested in a Servian Militia Camp--Barbaric Soldiery and Strange People--We Surrender to a Roumanian Picket--A Characteristic Servian Village--The Frontier of Bulgaria 211 CHAPTER XVI Kalafat and Widdin--A Gale out of a Clear Sky--Bulgarian Fishermen--Widdin and its People--Quaint Turkish Sailing Craft--The River Landscape and the Bulgarian Villages--Custom-house Annoyances--Our Passports save us 230 CHAPTER XVII