A Grazing Country--Wild-fowl in Abundance--Nicopolis and the First Reminder of the War of 1877-78--Exodus of Turks at Sistova--Trip to Plevna--Echoes of the War--Rustchuk and Silistria--Monotony and Mud 247 CHAPTER XVIII Squally Weather and Head-winds--The Dobrudscha--Trajan’s Great Wall--Our Camp is Besieged, but Peace is soon Declared--A Roumanian Village--Braila and Galatz--A Tribe of Gypsies 267 CHAPTER XIX The Danube Delta--The European Commission and its Work--Sulina, a Town on English Soil--We Enter the Territory of the Czar--The River divides and the Delta begins 280 CHAPTER XX We Fraternize with Russian Soldiers--A Night at a Picket Station--Custom-house Formalities at Ismail--We Encounter the Police--A Desolate Land--We Camp in the Mud--Kilia--Moldavian Peasants and Russian Pickets 295 CHAPTER XXI We reach Vilkoff and Renew our Struggles with the Custom-house--A Remote Town--The Sturgeon Fishery and Caviar--We Push on to the Black Sea--A Gale is Blowing, and We make a Landing with Difficulty--The Roumanian “Cordon”--A Paddle in the Black Sea--We dismantle our Canoes and reach Sulina 312 ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE Alfred Parsons, Poultney Bigelow and F. D. Millet. _Frontispiece_ Peasant Girl of the Black Forest 2 A Haymaker 3 Donaueschingen Girls 5 The Sketch-book 7 Black Forest Cow Team 10 Spectators 13 The Start--Donaueschingen 17 Pforen 20 Hut for Duck Shooting--Neidingen 22 Max Schneckenburger, Author of “Die Wacht am Rhein” 23 Below Mühlheim, Kallenberg 25 Wernwag 28 Wildenstein 29 The Monks of Beuron 30 Sigmaringen 33 Hohenzollern 34 Nuns at Riedlingen 35 Crossing the Weir--Rottenacker 37