There were at least two fair-sized monasteries which during the next few
days we visited to obtain supplies. Monasteries seem to vary in
character as they vary in size. Buddhism seems, in fact, to have left
its mark upon Tibet in the manner of some great flood. Here on a lone
hilltop stands a tiny monastery stagnant, like some small pool left by
the flood, the monks few in number, their persons sordid, their minds
vacant, and what remains of their religion stale or even polluted; while
elsewhere in larger monasteries religion is clearer and more vital, and
life less stagnant. This is a pure generalisation, and doubtless men,
holy after their lights, often live in remote hovels, and in the chiefer
centres religion may often be dreamy or callous, and sordid vices be not
unknown. But perhaps, merely as a generalisation, the above may hold
good.
A foraging visit to a monastery was often marked by several phases, in
which the relations between visitor and visited underwent considerable
change. The officer in charge of the foraging party would ride up to the
monastery with his escort. They would have been seen coming, and after a
few signs of hurrying and preparation and the fluttering of several red
monastic skirts in the breeze, a small select deputation of monks would
descend from the main building to meet the intruders. This deputation
would first and foremost bring with it a white muslin rag as an emblem
of peace. Along with the rag would be carried peace-offerings, of which
the most common would be a tray of whole-wheat parched and salted, or a
small basket of eggs, which, on nearer acquaintance later in the day,
would usually be found to be neither new-laid nor fresh, but simply
'eggs.'