With the aid of an interpreter a pleasant conversation would ensue. The
officer would then probably produce his hand-camera and snapshot the
head lama, after which he would try to get to business. He would ask how
much of such and such article the monastery could sell us. The monks
would shake their heads, flutter their skirts, jerk up their thumbs, and
in a shrill falsetto repeat the word 'Menduk' (which means 'nothing').
After a little more parley they would confess to having, say, twenty
bagfuls of tsampa or whatever was required. Even the naming of a high
rate and the jingling of a bag of rupees in their faces would not make
them raise the above figure. You would then, if you were the officer,
proceed within the monastery and demand to be shown the said twenty
bagfuls. You would be led with great pomp and circumstance upstairs and
along dark passages and past rows of cells till you were ushered into a
small pantry or storeroom, where, with a gesture of pompous satisfaction
at having so completely fulfilled your requirements, the head monk would
point to a few handfuls of tsampa lying at the bottom of a small
elongated wooden trough. You would feel a little annoyance at this, and
show signs of it. The head monk, as by a happy inspiration, would
suddenly beckon you to accompany him, and, after another long meandering
through the monastery, would lead you to a large doorway into a large
darkened hall, which, when your eyes became accustomed to the dim light,
you would recognise as the main 'gompa' or temple of the monastery. Here
his hand would steal into yours, which he would caress, while with his
free hand he pointed to the chief image of Buddha, which he was
apparently wishing you to admire. Of course you admired him, but you
wanted tsampa, and this was obviously merely a ruse to detain you from
your quest. British choler would then rise, and, going out of the temple
with somewhat irreverent haste, you would begin to express yourself
forcibly in terms which you made the interpreter translate. The
interpreter had probably an axe of his own to grind, and it was doubtful
how many of your trenchant phrases, even if fit to repeat in a
monastery, got actually translated. But after a great show of meaning
business, and a few threats of stronger measures in the background, you
probably got, say, fifty maunds of tsampa from a proper storeroom which
the lamas had previously refrained from showing you. A little later a
few more threats and the threatening crack of a whip round the head of a
'chela' or two would send the monks all skipping about in trepidation,
and the door of the main storeroom would be opened to you, in which you
would find, it might be, two hundred maunds (or three days' supply for
the force) of the desired article. After this you were all friends. No
ill-will was borne on either side. The junior monks or 'chelas' would
assist in bagging the flour, and in carrying it down to the place where
the mules were waiting for it.