Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
Sorrento lies upon a platform or broad level space of land, the seaward
side being high perpendicular cliffs, so that one looks sheer down from
the hotel windows on the north to the water far below, which is reached
from the hotel by a winding tunnel cut into the rock. It is placed,
like Mentone, under the guard of a semicircle of hills, although these
are both nearer and much lower than those at Mentone; but as the town
faces the north, instead of the south as at Mentone, it is rather a
summer than a winter residence. We had it very cold there during the
night, but in the glowing mid–day sun it was charming to look out
upon the water and land, and see everything bathed in an atmosphere
of light, while vegetation was now beginning to advance, lending an
additional charm to the landscape. We were not, however, altogether
without rain. One night was particularly stormy and wet.
* * * * *
There are excursions from Sorrento upon the hills which can be
accomplished by aid of donkeys, and it is also possible to cross over
the hills to Amalfi, though this was not reckoned altogether safe
from bandits. Boats can be had for boating, but the main excursions
are by steamboat to Capri, and driving to Massa, a picturesque town a
few miles westward; the road to it by the coast being a continuation
of that from Castellamare, and affording lovely views at every turn.
The excursion to Capri is made by steamboat, and every fine morning
two rival steamers (a paddle and a screw boat) from Naples approached
Sorrento to take excursionists to Capri and its blue grotto. In
addition to the fare there and back of 5 francs, innumerable other
little charges for boats, etc. make the expense up to 8 francs each.
When the sea is stormy, the boats do not go, as it is impossible to
enter the grotto when there is the least swell upon the water. This is
annoying to unlucky persons who are left on the island, as it sometimes
happens in consequence that the boats may not leave Naples for weeks
together. I met on board the steamer two American friends who had come
from Naples, were to sleep a night at Capri and return the next day,
having taken their passage for the day following in a steamer for
Genoa. The next day, however, proved stormy, and the steamboats did
not make their appearance for several days afterwards, so that our
friends must have been kept prisoners on the island and lost their
passage besides. We had, however, a very beautiful day for the trip,
the steamboat taking about two hours to reach Capri from Sorrento, and
it was most enjoyable. The views from the deck are enchanting. When we
arrived off the grotto, the vessel was surrounded by a multitude of
little boats; and as three persons only are allowed to each, it took a
long time for all the visitors to get off. The sea where the steamer
stopped was of a most lovely blue colour, perhaps due to some great
local saltness of the ocean. On approaching the entrance to the grotto,