He was discouraged and ceased to write; he left his luggage at the
station with the books and manuscripts which he had brought: one
hundred and four kilos of paper. Everything in Rome harassed him: the
nasty people, a mob of illegitimates; the priests, whom he could not
tolerate; the churches, "caverns with unsavoury odours." His hatred
of Catholicism is instinctive and has far-off origins; always when he
approaches it, he shudders. It is not the philosopher who judges and
reproves; it is the son of the pastor, who has remained a Lutheran: who
cannot endure the other Church, full of incense and idols.
The desire came to him to leave this town. He heard the beauty of
Aquila praised. Friedrich von Hohenstaufen, the Emperor of the
Arabs and the Jews, the enemy of the popes, resided there; Friedrich
Nietzsche wished to reside there, too. Still, the room which he
occupied was a fine and well-situated one, Piazza Barberini, at the
very top of a house. There one could forget the town: the murmur of
water falling from a triton's horn stilled the noise of humanity and
sheltered his melancholy. There it was that, one evening, he was to
improvise the most poignant expression of his despair and solitude:
"I am light; alas if I were night! But this is my solitude, to be
always surrounded by light.
"Alas that I am not shadow and gloom! How I would drink from the
breasts of light!
"... But I live in my own light, I drink the flames which escape from
me!"
_Thus Spake Zarathustra, a Book for All and None,_ at last appeared
during the first days of June.
"I am very much on the move," wrote Nietzsche. "I am in agreeable
society, but as soon as I am alone I feel moved as I have never been."
He soon knew the fate of his book. His friends spoke to him very little
of it; the newspapers, the reviews, did not mention it; no one was
interested in this Zarathustra, the strange prophet who in a biblical
tone taught unbelief. "How bitter it is!" said Lisbeth Nietzsche and
Fräulein von Meysenbug; these two women, Christians at heart that they
were, took offence. "And I," wrote Nietzsche to Peter Gast, "I who find
my book so gentle!"
The heat dispersed this Roman society. Friedrich Nietzsche knew
not where to go. He had hoped for such different days! He had been
persuaded that he would move lettered Europe, that he would at last
attract readers to himself, or (more precisely perhaps) that he would
attract, not towards his feeble self, but towards Zarathustra, who was
so strong, disciples or even servitors. "For this summer," he wrote in
May to Peter Gast, "I have a project: to choose, in some forest, some
castle formerly fitted up by the Benedictines for their meditations,
and to fill it with companions, chosen men ... I must go on a quest for
new friends." About the 20th June, thunderstruck by the loss of his
hopes, he went up towards his favourite retreat, the Engadine.