In the Wilds of South America — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
In the Wilds of South America
John Stuart Mill · en
After the agitation had subsided the people erected an altar in the
plaza for the celebration of a mass of thanksgiving. Each one brought
some trinket--a few paper flowers, a picture, a bit of tinsel, or a
candle--with which to embellish the sacred structure. Then they all
knelt, with bared heads, and in deepest devotion assisted at the
religious service; that is, all but a plump Indian woman who boiled
_chontaduros_, or palm-nuts, in a huge kettle, in back of one of the
huts and sold them to the worshippers the moment devotions were over.
It required fully a half-day longer to reach the end of the mule
trail, and by that time we had reached an elevation of eight thousand
feet.
From this point up the mountains are covered with a dense growth of
primeval forest. Below this elevation there are occasional strips of
woods and patches of brush interspersed with clearings. Maize grows
splendidly up to an altitude of seven thousand feet; this was proven
by the few small fields cultivated by the Indians. The slope was also
dotted with areas planted in rice.
The ascent of Munchique is very abrupt; there are no streams near the
summit, as the top of the mountain is composed of solid rock that sheds
rain as soon as it falls. The highest pinnacle is a flat, bare rock,
about ten thousand feet above sea-level.
Robert Blake White states that from this spot one may “obtain a view
over more than fifteen thousand square miles of country. The whole of
the Central Cordillera, from the frontier of Ecuador to the confines of
the State of Antioquia, with the valleys of the Cauca and the Patia,
were visible to the north, east, and south; whilst, on turning to the
westward, the Pacific coast from the bay of Tumaco to the mouth of the
San Juan River seemed spread out like a map before us.
“A more gorgeous panorama cannot well be imagined. The belts of
bright-colored vegetation, marked by the valleys with their winding
rivers and streams, were backed with masses of the Cordillera with
their varied tints and snow-capped peaks. On the other hand, the
dark-hued vegetation of the virgin forests of the Pacific slopes
stretched down to the ocean’s margin, which with its thousand bays
and inlets and fringe of foam which was quite visible, looked like an
edging of lace. The island of Gorgona could be distinctly seen.
“The Cerro Munchique should be visited in the dry season, for its
peculiar prominence makes it a grand lightning conductor, as we clearly
saw from the shattered rock on the summit.”
[Illustration: Cerro Munchique.]
[Illustration: A deserted Indian hut on the Cerro Munchique.]